Xinomavro
Greece · Red · Available (A)
Northern Greece’s great red — “sour black” — and the backbone of Naoussa, Amyndeon, Goumenissa and Rapsani. Pale, quick-fading colour hiding formidable tannin and acidity, with tomato, sun-dried olive, dried herbs and, with age, leather and pot-pourri. Ages for decades. The Nebbiolo comparison is overused but not wrong.